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Patchy lawn #Before |
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Reworked sizing for split basins |
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Laying out plants |
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Fresh Rain Garden Install #After |
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Patchy lawn #Before |
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Reworked sizing for split basins |
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Laying out plants |
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Fresh Rain Garden Install #After |
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Trevor displays his honeysuckle trophy |
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Barberry is a nasty one, with painful and irritating thorns |
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Barberry at Browns Woods in West Des Moines |
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Brilliant, but Invasive, Burning Bush |
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Suckers growing from the rootstock |
Grafting lets us know which variety of fruit we are growing, assuring we get our favorite flavors and other qualities. This top part is known as the Scion wood and is grafted onto a known rootstock.
The Rootstock is the part of the tree that will grow in the ground, and also chosen for its characteristics. Rootstocks can be seedling grown for economics but are typically cloned with reproducibly known qualities. These may be chosen for size, disease resistance or performance in a specific soil type.
While trees are young, "root suckers" and other branches on aggressive rootstocks have an easier time growing as the graft scar takes some time to heal completely. This reduces nutrient and water transfer, hindering the scion's ability to grow until it heals completely. These branches and suckers can sometimes grow rapidly and overtake the slower grafted portion. If left unchecked this can eventually cause the grafted part to atrophy and die, losing your chosen variety.
In the video we'll visit the Food Forest at Drake University to demonstrate sucker pruning on a young grafted American Persimmon tree.
Branching and suckering of the rootstock is one way to lose your grafted variety from trees and you will be left with lesser quality fruit, if any fruit at all. Removing these vigorous suckers is necessary for the long-term health and productivity of the tree.
Our customers want to take the best care of their projects once we finish an installation. We often share care and watering tips with them on site, but sometimes they are at work, on vacation or away for any number of reasons. Also, many prefer to have the directions written out for them as it can be easy to forget, or stressful wondering if you forgot something important.
Here are our suggestions for taking the best care of your new plantings.
Over the next few weeks and months water and observe as necessary until the tree is fully established.
*Caliper refers to the diameter of the trunk 6" above the ground (or 12" high if larger than 4" caliper)
A smaller tree will take nearly a full growing season to become fully established. A 2" tree may require two years to become fully established on its own while a 3" tree may need three years. The larger the tree, the bigger the shock so continue to be diligent in keeping an eye on things even long after the initial planting.
Although not always accurate, you can guess the reason for stress by where you see wilting leaves - Wilting higher in the tree can indicate not enough water and if wilting or browning occurs lower in the tree it may signal too much water. Adjust your watering plan accordingly.
Over the next few weeks and months water and observe as necessary until the plant is fully established.
Over the next few weeks and months they will need watered as necessary until the plant is fully established.
Typically perennials will take a growing season to become fully established.
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Sprinklers can help cover large areas |
Too much mulch or piling mulch against a trunk can be a problem. Leave a few inches between your mulch and the trunk to prevent fungal infection. Mulch deeper than 4" can also keep water from reaching the soil and roots during lighter rains, as well as other problems.
Avoid the "Mulch Volcano" and think of using more of a flattened mulch donut.
Pests like rabbits and deer can really do a number on young plantings. Even if a plant is described as resistant, rabbits and deer don't read books! A wire cage or tree guard may be warranted. During the winter, protection can be even more important as many typical foods are dormant or under snow, causing deer and rabbits to eat things they wouldn't normally eat. Male deer will also rub their antlers on younger trees during the fall rut. This can damage the bark on unprotected trees allowing pests or disease in, or even break off a young tree entirely.
With the right care your new plants will be off to a great start providing years of enjoyment. Whether it's a new shade tree for the patio, new berry bushes by the garden or a whole food forest, you can give your project the best chance of success with these simple tips!
Best wishes on your new project!
Yes, there is a new YouTube video we just posted!
Well, it isn't that exciting, but it will help if you have to haul your wheelbarrow over to a friend or family member's house. Or maybe you are the new kid on a landscaping crew and want to show the guys you know a couple tricks.
I hope to be putting more content out as we document more of what we are doing.